Category Archives: Repairs

Replacing the Evap Purge Valve on a 2019 Ford Fiesta ST (US)

My Fiesta has been doing that stuttering/hesitation thing after a fill-up (and a few times quite a bit of time since my last fill-up).  The internets say that this is likely due to a bad evap purge valve.  The valve itself is a $30 part, but the valve is installed semi-permanently with what appears to be some kind of heat-shrunk tubing, so you have 3 options for replacement:

  1. Heat the tubing up and attempt to pull the valve off.  I tried this after the fact with no luck, but not much effort either.
  2. Cut the tubing off and use 3/8″ ID rubber hose and 2 hose clamps to connect the new valve.  This seems like a janky fix to me.
  3. Replace the entire evap purge valve assembly (solenoid valve + tubing + check valve + fittings)

I opted for option 3 despite many YouTube videos advising that one of the connections is a PITA to access.  I believe those videos are for older versions of the FiST, because changing the evap purge valve assembly on my 2019 was super easy.  So…here’s the process:

 

  • Buy the replacement part (F2BZ-9C047-C).  I paid $96 online right as of 2 weeks ago.
  • Remove the engine cover by carefully pulling each anchor straight up.
  • Remove the intake hose by loosening the 2 hose clamps (green arrows) and these 2 fittings (orange arrows).  You might find it easier to remove the downstream hose clamp if you remove the fitting marked with the blue arrow.  This fitting is removed by squeezing it at the ribbed part then pulling it straight off.
  • Disconnect the old assembly near the front of the car (see red arrow from previous image).  This is also removed by squeezing at the ribbed part then pulling straight off.
  • Disconnect the old assembly near the rear of the engine bay.  My pic of this sucks, so you’ll need to feel/look around until you see the fitting with the green clip (which should match your replacement part).  Sliding the green clip back will allow you to pull the fitting off of the tube it’s mounted to.
  • Disconnect electrical connector from the valve and pull the valve off of its mount.  Sorry, no pic, but this is an easy one.  Then snake the entire assembly out of the engine bay.  Installation is the reverse.

FYI…I decided to test the valve by blowing into one end while intermittently applying 12VDC to the solenoid valve leads, and it appears that the old valve is working just fine…so shit, this might not be the issue.  And running an OBDII scan shows no DTCs, so, well, I don’t know if this was a waste of $96 and half an hour of my time.  To be continued…

Wiring Diagram for BikeMaster front turn signal and Honda Nighthawk CB750

The front turn signals on my 1996 Honda Nighthawk CB750 needed replacing, so I picked up some replacement aftermarket units by BikeMaster (#261035).  Mechanically they are identical to what was on my bike, but electrically, the wires were a different color. The BikeMaster units came with the wires terminated in snap plug terminals, so it was an easy fix.

The signals use model 1034 light bulbs which have an 8W filament (corner light) and a 23W filament (turn signal).  Here’s a quick summary of how things get connected (left/right per the Clymer manual):

Function BikeMaster Wire Color Left wire harness Right wire harness
Turn signal Red Light blue Orange
Corner light Black Light blue + white stripe Orange + white stripe
Ground Black + white stripe Green Green

And now graphically (left/right as if you were facing the bike, as you will be when you do this repair):

Ah, shit, re-reading this has me wondering if I have left/right backward somewhere–better double check me before you follow this guide.

Replacing the Touch Screen Digitizer on a 2nd Gen Lexus IS250/IS350

Photo Credit: Scott Lam

The touch screen stopped responding on my wife’s Lexus IS250 last weekend, apparently a common issue with the 2nd generation IS250.  Looks like a $2500 repair if you go to the dealer…or a $25 part I picked up on Amazon (ugh, F you Jeff Bezos).  Took 2 hours for someone who is relatively comfy working on cars–if you have replaced a car stereo on a modern-ish card, you can do this.

Things to know:

  • I followed Scott Lam’s guide on how to do the replacement (thanks, kind internet stranger!), which is mostly correct, except the following:
    • Instead of Scott’s post on removing the head unit, I’d recommend following this video (or at least the first half of it)–this method makes accessing the lower 2 head unit mount screws easier.  Note that in the video, they put a blanket over the center console–I strongly recommend doing that.
    • Scott’s guide doesn’t mention that there are 4 screws (2 on each side, see image above) on the head unit which secure the fascia.  Also, you don’t have to remove the lower fascia around the stereo–just the upper one around the navigation system.
  • I’d hit the perimeter of the screen with a heat gun for 15-30 seconds before cutting through the laminating tape with an X-acto knife.  I got lucky, but I could see how you might cut the screen with the knife if you aren’t careful, so maybe only insert the blade 1/4″ to be safe.
  • Goo-Gone and a plastic scraper is the easiest/safest way to remove the original double-sided tape.
  • The replacement digitizer I bought from Amazon came with cut-to-size double-sided tape (and some extra) which made reinstallation a snap.
  • Take pix of the cables going into the head unit before you start unhooking things.  I didn’t see where the TPMS cable plugs in (it goes into the blue box on top of the head unit)…and my wife’s car doesn’t have the Mark Levinson DVD player, so there’s a blue jack on the head unit that doesn’t have anything plugged into it.
  • Apparently there was a recall on the dashboard, which turns into a melty putty by around now.  If you didn’t get the recall done, then be extra careful pulling out and reinstalling the nav unit lest you accidentally take a chunk of the dash out.  And if you do, here’s Scott Lam’s guide to fixing that with Sugru.

The major upside is that while researching this repair, I found out how to add Carplay to her 13 year old car–will post on that when I finish the upgrade.

UPDATE: when reassembling the frame on the screen, be sure to tuck the copper ground straps (see yellow arrows below) back INTO the frame.  I left one sticking out on accident, which then was intermittently shorting to another component, causing the display to go blank unexpectedly over the last several months.  Was a PITA to diagnose, but I finally found out where I screwed up.

Image from Hey Jeff’s Youtube video on how to do the replacement.