Replacing the Evap Purge Valve on a 2019 Ford Fiesta ST (US)

My Fiesta has been doing that stuttering/hesitation thing after a fill-up (and a few times quite a bit of time since my last fill-up).  The internets say that this is likely due to a bad evap purge valve.  The valve itself is a $30 part, but the valve is installed semi-permanently with what appears to be some kind of heat-shrunk tubing, so you have 3 options for replacement:

  1. Heat the tubing up and attempt to pull the valve off.  I tried this after the fact with no luck, but not much effort either.
  2. Cut the tubing off and use 3/8″ ID rubber hose and 2 hose clamps to connect the new valve.  This seems like a janky fix to me.
  3. Replace the entire evap purge valve assembly (solenoid valve + tubing + check valve + fittings)

I opted for option 3 despite many YouTube videos advising that one of the connections is a PITA to access.  I believe those videos are for older versions of the FiST, because changing the evap purge valve assembly on my 2019 was super easy.  So…here’s the process:


  • Buy the replacement part (F2BZ-9C047-C).  I paid $96 online right as of 2 weeks ago.
  • Remove the engine cover by carefully pulling each anchor straight up.
  • Remove the intake hose by loosening the 2 hose clamps (green arrows) and these 2 fittings (orange arrows).  You might find it easier to remove the downstream hose clamp if you remove the fitting marked with the blue arrow.  This fitting is removed by squeezing it at the ribbed part then pulling it straight off.
  • Disconnect the old assembly near the front of the car (see red arrow from previous image).  This is also removed by squeezing at the ribbed part then pulling straight off.
  • Disconnect the old assembly near the rear of the engine bay.  My pic of this sucks, so you’ll need to feel/look around until you see the fitting with the green clip (which should match your replacement part).  Sliding the green clip back will allow you to pull the fitting off of the tube it’s mounted to.
  • Disconnect electrical connector from the valve and pull the valve off of its mount.  Sorry, no pic, but this is an easy one.  Then snake the entire assembly out of the engine bay.  Installation is the reverse.

FYI…I decided to test the valve by blowing into one end while intermittently applying 12VDC to the solenoid valve leads, and it appears that the old valve is working just fine…so shit, this might not be the issue.  And running an OBDII scan shows no DTCs, so, well, I don’t know if this was a waste of $96 and half an hour of my time.  To be continued…